I’ve recently had a few comments about how I made my jacket, it was quite complex in certain places, namely the pockets but alot of the other features were very straightforward, such as the collar and attaching the lining, I used this method but not this tutorial since I was in a class so I was shown there. The jacket is actually a very simple style with minimal shaping, mainly in the back of the jacket and just two darts! I thought that when i’d do this post going into more detail about the jacket I would also show you a little bit about how I come to final garment from my initial idea.
Usually I start with collecting some images, then I’ll start to sketch, taking the details I love of one jacket with shape I love of another. I tend to hum and haw over an idea for a long time, this jacket being in that process for months. Sometimes its a really simple idea like a top, that can be made up instantly and if it doesn’t work out can be hidden in the back of my wardrobe. A jacket isn’t as easy to hide… In the end I adapted my original idea heavily into something I deemed more “wearable”, as in something that I could wear with both my jeans and dresses, even shorts in summer.
Then I get to the actual drafting of the pattern, don’t fret it’s not as complex as you might think. I find most bloggers who sew have done a little bit of drafting or are used to making some fairly big adjustments on sewing patterns. Drafting is a bit like making sewing pattern adjustments, the first thing you make is your block, you then get that ‘block’ fitted to your exact shape, starting with your measurements and then you try it on and fit from there, it’s really better to start off with a course though, after you get the hang of it you’ll be creating your own free patterns in no time! For my jacket I had to make a tailoring block, if you haven’t tried pattern drafting before the above photo probably looks like a bunch of mumbo jumbo to you, it’s a diagram of how you turn your dress block to a tailoring block and from that block you can make a jacket, coat, tailored suit jacket, even the recent Victoria blazer was most likely made off this block. The standard cut is like a well-made and super tight fitting suit jacket, nothing at all like my jacket. Once you have a well fitting block then it’s just a case of what you want the length to be and how much ease you want, I won’t go into much detail about the drafting of my jacket but feel free to leave a message if you want more info.
After everything is designed, drafted and tested then you can make the final piece. It’s quite a bit of work but its all worth it when you get a perfect fit on your garment, and you’re not only able to say “I made this” but you can say “I designed this” too!